Middle-aged flash packers

It’s been a while. Wings have been clipped a bit but that doesn’t mean a mini road trip Is out of the question. So here we are, on a 12 day whistle stop tour of Northern Portugal, beginning in Vila Real, gateway to Parque do Alvo and the Alto do Douro.

An easy drive along a brand new motorway (so new the car sat nav didn’t recognise it) saw us arrive at Casa da Quinta De San Martinho, our lodgings for the next few days. My heart sank when our host informed us there was a “party” tonight at the palace Mateus a park, a few doors down. After having been to Crete in June and being kept awake all night by a wedding celebration, Complete with firecrackers to replicate gun shots, I really didn’t fancy a rerun.

Our apartment at the residence is quite quirky with an exceedingly tiny kitchen (two people in it is virtually impossible) and a spiral staircase leading to a beamed mezzanine bedroom. I am worried that Steve is in grave danger of getting up in the night, banging his head on a beam and hurling himself over the balcony. It’s a bit like a hobbit house here and I’m feeling very much at home which is probably the opposite to how Steve is feeling.

Dinner was at the María do Carmo. Very delicious and ridiculously good value. Everyone in Vila Real seemed to agree as just after we ordered, a deluge of locals appeared.

After dinner we wandered into the town to find the historic centre. Dead as a doornail. We couldn’t believe it. Vila Real is home to over 50,000 people but only a handful of bored teenagers could be seen, lying around on benches. Where was everyone?

Well some of them were in a bar/cafe about 10 minutes walk outside the old town. And – they were Smoking INSIDE!!! I could not believe my eyes! (Or my nostrils). What gross insubordination! A deliberate flouting of EU laws! We had to go OUTSIDE to avoid their evil ways. Tut tut Portugal. I am looking at you through new eyes and maybe even with a little admiration for your blatant rule breaking.

As we walked back to Hobbit House, the “party” music got louder and louder. Turns out it was a public music event, free for everyone. Kids were there with their Mums and dads, everyone seemed to know each other. Nice. But it’s midnight and it’s still going. Ah well, hopefully they won’t have any firecrackers.

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