Middle-aged flash packers

The day I decide it’s safer for me to leave my phone behind is the day I desperately want to take photos.

First of all, we popped into LuLu hypermarket in Sur to buy lunch. As I’ve previously mentioned, this is a favourite haunt for Omanis. I needed to go to the loo and while I was in there I saw a Bedouin lady. She was wearing her Bedouin clothes which were eye catching. Unlike the black all over look favoured in Muscat, she was dressed in bright, elaborately embroidered fabric – stunning. And over her face she was wearing what can only be described as a batman mask. I saw one of these in the Muscat museum and presumed they were of a bygone era. I googled it and apparently not. The further south in Oman you go, the more likely you are to see it.

Now I wouldn’t have the nerve to take a pic in the loo but I’m pretty sure a lady in there (full black burqa) was filming me! I wish we could go and have coffee together, I really would love to get to know the ladies of Oman.

By the way, the bakery departments in LuLu’s sell very interesting and tasty morsels. Any of you who know Steve will be aware of his predilection for tasty morsels wrapped in pastry and today it was vegetable somas Omani style. These are little pyramids of gorgeousness, stuffed to the brim with veg and spices, not curry spices, something different but I don’t know what.

Stacked with goodies to fortify us, it was off to Wadi Al Shab. This was why I didn’t take my phone. You can swim in the wadi and then into a cave so we decided best to take only one phone in case we lost/damaged one.

It’s a 40 minute walk to the wadi. A boat ferries you across to the starting point and from there it’s quite a tricky walk. It’s not a difficult walk but the pathway is well used and the rocks are shiny and slippy. I wore crocs which had good grips and were fine.

People had warned us of crowds but it was reasonably quiet when we got there.

We stashed our bag under a ledge and got in the wadi. From there we swam to the next pool and had to clamber over some rocks to get in the next one. We saw a young man take quite a tumble so I crawled along like an ancient old woman.

Swimming into the cave means squeezing through a very tiny entrance. I have history with caves. The very thought of being in a dark, confined space gives me the shivers. However, I didn’t want to miss out on the experience so I gritted my teeth and swam through. I don’t want to worry people but it’s easier to swim sideways.Once in though, it’s pretty magical.

Returning was easy and we picked up our backpack ready for the walk back back. A guide with a group of people stopped for a chat and told us a young French man had died there yesterday after trying to climb around the outside of the cave. We had seen red splodges as we’d walked along but had thought they were beetle juice. Transpires that was where he was carried out. Dreadful.

Next stop, Bimmah Sinkhole. The fish nibbled our feet, it felt very strange. While we were there two local boys were showing off and one was brewing up the courage to jump off the rim into the water. At about 20 meters and after already hearing of one young male dying, I chose not to watch but other people found it entertaining and he landed safely.

To top off a good day we went to Zaki’s in Sur for dinner. A no frills restaurant, the food was utterly delicious, one of the best curries I’ve ever had. The lemon rice in particular was spectacular. And as usual, less is more – about £8 each including (soft) drinks.

And that, my dear readers, is that. Tomorrow will be spent packing, getting the car cleaned and driving back to Muscat for our flight on Thursday.

I’ve enjoyed Oman. I didn’t really have any expectations, other than I needed to recharge my batteries after Mum’s passing. It’s done that and more. Thanks Oman.

Ps. After popping into LuLu hypermarket for more provisions today, I saw the Bedouin lady again . She had a little stall selling knickknacks there with her friend and husband. I bought a few trinkets and got a photo.