Bukhara

Executive Summary: nice breakfast; alternative Bukhara; back to the Madrassas; dicing with a dodgy tum

Hearty and delicious breakfast this morning which was great as we ate very little yesterday. Enjoying staying in this little local gem so far.

We are tucked away up a small alley just off the Layabi-Khaus pond which is pretty close to all the main sights.

Being the prole that I am, I have to say that initially my first thought today was do I really want to see any more madrasahs, mosques and museums? Luckily Steve felt the same so we agreed to just wander about rather than plan out our day.

We found a nice photo gallery with some very atmospheric pictures, but more impressive was the short-eared cat that lived there. It’s flat ears gave it a quite angry appearance but it was friendly, if infuriatingly reluctant to have its photo taken. Maybe that’s what happens when you live with a photographer.

As we strolled along, I heard live music playing and stuck my head round a door to see what was going on. We were invited in to see three dancers rehearsing. I happened to see the dance they were performing on tv in Khiva so it was a real treat to watch them.

Next we spotted a tower which looked like a converted water tower. For £5 you can get a lift up to the top and see the sprawl that is Bukhara. The story behind it is interesting as the information given on the 10 minute info film is quite different to that given on various websites. basically up until the early 20th century, Bukhara had terrible problems with clean water and people were becoming very ill. According to the film, a German architect designed the water tank and a new water system. However, no website seems to mention him and all say it was Soviet designed. The water tower helped provide clean water until it was damaged by fire in the 1970’s. It was then renovated by “local entrepreneurs” according to various websites (but they were definitely a French couple in the film) and turned into an attraction with a (French) restaurant at the bottom. Who is telling the truth? Answers on a postcard please.

The rest of the day was spent stumbling across beautifully renovated (you’ve guessed it) mosques, Madrassas and mausoleums, interspersed with various eating opportunities.

I’ve been living dangerously by ordering drinks such as smoothies and iced coffee. I don’t do this deliberately. After I’ve ordered them I regret it and then worry that I’m going to be ill. The water is literally poison here. You should see the pipes it’s carried in. They are above ground and unbelievably rusty. You do not want to let a drop pass your lips. I think I must have a death wish. I’ll be having a salad next.

Bhukara by night is a more muted affair than Khiva, not helped by a chilly wind blowing. After a lacklustre meal, this evening we went walkabout hoping to see various edifices lit up but only the minaret was aglow. Ah well, maybe Samarkand might be more impressive at night- we will find out tomorrow.