Middle-aged flash packers

After a very uncomfortable tummy in the night I decided to forgo breakfast and finish my blog and packing instead.

We were all slightly nervous about the trek and how basic/hard it was going to be. We paid extra to go on a private trek and also to go on the less touristy trail.

It got off to a good start with the van arriving promptly. It then deposited us at Eversmile head office ( a shack basically) while all the other trekkers assembled. We passed the time chatting to other trekkers and got the mickey ripped out of us for going on the “vip” trip. Obviously we gave them the royal wave as we left.

The starting point of our walk was half an hour’s drive away. Toto was our guide which we were pleased about as she’s the boss and full of personality.

As we walked we could see fields full of vegetables and chillis. The ground is red clay and obviously very fertile. Toto pointed out lots of interesting medicinal plants and gave us information on all manner of things. It was all going so well until the heavens opened.

Our route was along thin mud tracks between fields and before long we were slipping and sliding everywhere. To make matters worse, leeches were trying to attach themselves to mine and Jan’s shoes and ankles. Toto plodded on stoically but Steve started making noises about if it carried on, he’d go back to Kalaw. Luckily such an opportunity never arose and eventually the rain subsided.

The villages we passed through were fascinating. Toto said there are many different tribes in the area and they all used to fight but the present government has persuaded them to stop it.

Lunch was quite late but was worth waiting for. It was provided by a family in their home and was very tasty. Noodles with vegetables and egg, a broth made with celery leaves and loads of fruit. The house was very clean, in fact all the villages we passed through were very tidy and organised.

The second part of the trek took us through more tracks then the scenery changed to a more rugged one, with limestone hills in the distance.

We came across people working in the fields. Everything is done by hand. No cars, no tractors, no phones. A way of life that I presumed was long gone. We saw a villager digging up and packing ginger into a sack. Toto told us that the ginger takes 10 months to grow and for each sack he would get £1.

Home time was particularly fascinating. Just before dusk it was like rush hour, with ladies carrying baskets of produce on their heads or pulling along cows and men driving carts pulled by buffaloes along the mud “road”.

We arrived at the homestay we were going to be staying in just before sunset.

Toto showed us the “shower” which I didn’t avail myself of and the toilet was a bit of a walk from the house but otherwise everything was fine. The family had given up their room for us and our beds were thin mattresses on the floor. We brought our own mosquito nets which were quite the event to put up.

Dinner was a feast. The dishes just kept coming. All vegetarian, all delicious and made with care. Toto said the lady had been cooking all day for us. We all did our best to eat as much as we could but we were beaten.

Bedtime was early. I can tell you now, the mattresses aren’t thick enough.