Middle-aged flash packers

Obviously we couldn’t just look at mount popa and it’s picturesque temple from afar, we needed to get up close and personal.

The temple is a shrine to 37 nats, spirits that are worshipped alongside Buddha. They form the legends that underpin Myanmar’s ancient culture.

I had already looked at a few blogs on climbing the 777 steps to the temple and the reviews were mixed to say the least. Homicidal monkeys sit on the steps apparently waiting to menace you and strip you of all your worldly goods . Even worse, they then poo all over the stairs which you have to tread in with your bare feet. To say I wasn’t looking forward to it would be an understatement.

I tried not to transfer my concern to everyone else other than to advise them not to carry food or wear sunglasses etc that could be taken with force. And also not to look directly in the eyes of any monkeys otherwise they would kill you. I think I did a good job containing my neuroses.

The walk up to the hill was hot and sweaty and a troop of monkeys did cross our path. I think they totally ignored us but I was trying hard not to look at them so couldn’t be sure.

It took us a while to reach the official start of the walk to the top but it seemed to me the monkeys were being safely kept away from the public by bars. I did see one sitting on a step but it seemed quite happy and definitely not homicidal.

We took our shoes off and stored them in a locker. We all had wet wipes to wipe the monkey mess off our feet.

To completely misquote Mark Twain; “rumours of monkey business have been very much exaggerated “.

I didn’t see any monkey poo or even a monkey anywhere. The steps are kept clean by cleaners (who keep asking for money but that’s another story) and the monkeys are behind bars. I almost felt disappointed. However, later on we saw a monk (monk, not monkey) carrying a catapult. I’m sure he was carrying it to keep marauding monkeys at bay. Why else would he have it? Are monks allowed to harm animals? Answers on a postcard please.

The actual temple was fine by the way. Definitely worth a visit but it does look better from a distance.

Our hike to The Real Mount Popa took place the following day. Jan and Nik had previously said they were going to have a lazy day round the pool but gamely changed their minds and decided to see how far they could get.

Steve managed to fuel himself for the walk despite the hotel’s efforts to feed him very small quantities and mess up his fried eggs. Luckily their inability to cook eggs meant they made several attempts and Steve ate most of them. Restaurant hunger incident narrowly averted. Joe and Charlie will know exactly what I mean here.

Next, we all decided that it was best to get a tuktuk to the start of the walk rather than start the hike from the hotel. Cramming four people into a tuktuk is hard enough (Nik shared the driver’s seat which looked hilarious) but then it had to scale an extremely steep hill. We all leant forward, willing it to make it. And it did!

Our driver, Hota, gave us his number so we could get a ride back and pointed us in the right direction. And then it was just us.

Jan saw a snake which was a bit freaky but other than that, it was a lovely, shady walk for the majority of the time.

Near the top, the shade ran out and it got a bit steeper but we all managed to make it to the top. The summit was pretty darn ugly to be honest. Several telecommunication masts, barbed wire and a scrubby old pagoda but the surrounding views were good.

Jan and Nik made their way back while we did an extra couple of miles along the ridge and back. The flowers here are profuse: huge yellow daisy/sunflower look a likes, and also marigolds up on the ridge.

The walk back was fine but by the time we got to where we were dropped off we’d had enough so it was disappointing to have no service on the phone to ring Hota. We walked another mile before we were able to contact him. It was another 10 minutes before we could hear Hota’s tuktuk puffing up

the hill and we were very glad to see him.

Getting into a swimming pool after a hot, dusty hike goes on my list of life’s small pleasures, along with a hot bath after a very cold walk. And a beer when you are thirsty and hot. And the smell of freshly washed linen. I could go on but you get the picture.

Tomorrow we return to Bagan and catch a ferry to cruise along the Irrawaddy river to Mandalay. 12 hours pottering along. Better bring the cards.