Gialova

We ended up here because a friend waxed lyrical about how beautiful it was back in the day, and it was on the route of our circular road trip of the Peloponnese.

We said a sad goodbye to Kardamyli and headed west. skirting Kalamata we drove past many, many olive groves, all supplying us with delicious Kalamata olives and apparently olive oil for the Italians. I think most Italians would strike you dead for the mere suggestion of such a thing but the story goes that they don’t produce enough of their own oil and top it up with oil from Kalamata. I’ll just leave quietly through the back door….

Our first impression of Gialova was not good. As we drove in, we could see two cranes and a massive spread of unfinished, ugly concrete cells. Apparently 5 star hotels and golf courses are being built. A far cry from our friend’s description of a fishing village with 2 tavernas. Progress for some, ruin for others – depends on your point of view I suppose. I think you know which one mine is.

Feeling somewhat deflated, we were greeted at our apartment by the owner Roi. She can only be described as a big personality. Slim, dark haired and usually with a roll up on the go, she infected us with her energy and enthusiasm for life. She ran through all the things we could do and where to eat etc like a machine gun. She is very curious and extracted an incredible amount of information from us in the first 10 minutes of our meeting. We met Mum and Dad and also her sister and her family. By the time she’d finished, we needed a lie down but Roi had done a great job of snapping us out of our mood of disappointment.

Later, after visiting the lagoon just down the road, we wandered into the “town” which is actually a long way from the building works. The town is basically a road with restaurants in it. It’s really pretty and quite posh but it looks purpose built rather than the usual hotch potch of old and new. Well heeled Greeks were eating here along side a cosmopolitan mix of tourists. It also caters to locals too. The taverna we ate at welcomed in people they knew and hugged visitors that had obviously become friends over the years. (Naughty hugging but it comes so naturally.) The food was good and there was ambience – what’s not to like?

Today we used the communal washing machine. We are the only people here so we were able to use it – it has been out of bounds because of Covid rules. This seems weird to me as what could be cleaner than a washing machine? Greece also has strange government rules.

Roi came by to oversee us and explain its use. (She doesn’t live on site.) Actually I think she loves a chat and we do too so we had a very pleasant morning waiting for the washing to be done while shooting the breeze with R.

Later, Steve and I climbed up to the Old Naverino castle, which is on the top of a headland overlooking both the open sea and a beautiful sheltered bay called Voidokilia.

It was not the warmest of days, but inspired by our son Charlie’s current obsession with Wim Hof, (crazy Dutchman who thinks swimming in icy water and holding your breath is good for you.) we went for a swim in the said gorgeous bay. It was a little chilly but invigorating. It definitely met the Win Hof criteria.

A bit early to say for sure, but Gialova is a pleasant place to spend time. It’s pretty and laidback with beautiful beaches. I don’t think it’s the same place our friend fell in love with many years ago, but considering what it may become in the near future, I’m glad we came now.