Gialova and Kardamyli are in the heart of olive country. Tankers dot the sea carrying tonnes of olives. So why when we go to a restaurant, are they rationed? If a salad is described as having olives in it, you’ll be lucky to get 3 between you. Last night, the restaurant we were in were obviously overcome with generosity and we were given 6 with our bread. Now, when I make a traybake with olives, I don’t stint, ditto a Greek salad. And guess where my favourite olives come from? Kalamata of course. Are they saving them all for foreign climes? I can imagine a Greek mama smacking her husband’s hand when he reaches for another olive – “you can’t eat those, they’re for Sainsbury’s.”
Similar issues with capers. I don’t know if they’re grown here but they are clearly highly prized. We ordered a tomato, cheese and rusk salad with capers. (A local specialty). There was one caper, proudly stood up in the cheese, like Sir Edmund Hilary on top of Everest. I took issue, pointing out that that one caper is singular, whereas the description was plural which means two or more. Happily the waiter enjoyed his English lesson and brought us several (official definition – more than two but not many).
And now to fleas. While walking in the hills above Kardamili, Steve and I were attacked by fleas. Loads of them. (Definition- a great deal, very many). They bit us all around the top of our socks, it was an infestation, horrible. Luckily Steve had some deet so we poisoned them and carried on. Other than the bites being extremely itchy at night, I hadn’t really thought too much about them. Until I was reading my book about the Silk Road and bubonic plague. Stupidly I looked up fleas and the diseases they can carry. I’m not going to say anything to Steve, but over the next few days I will be keeping a close eye on a variety of symptoms that I’m almost certainly going to convince myself we have.
Finally Olympia.It is not crap. The guide books are unfair. It is fabulous and yes you do have to use your imagination but they are ruins for goodness sake. Olympia is also very relatable. It’s easy to envisage the young athletes training for their events, just as they do today. Except they had to perform naked. And women weren’t allowed even to watch. Guess there’s a correlation there.
Controversial I know, but personally I think the Olympic Games should always be held in Greece. The birth place of the games, why on earth would you hold it anywhere else? But I do think ladies should be allowed. Clothing optional.
It was a joy to explore the site almost people free. We were reminded of the joys of coach tours when one of the few tour groups disgorged into the restaurant we were in. Maybe Steve and I should have sniffed some pepper and sneezed loudly – that would have got rid of them.
Never mind, it wasn’t all bad – Steve got his gyros.







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