Segovia

Cabrales left us with one last delight on our final evening – ticks. Steve noticed what looked like a black dot on his foot which on closer inspection was a tick. It was tiny but they can spread horrible diseases, so we had to have a chimp-like grooming session, looking for squirming black dots.

Our last meal in Calabres was at our favourite restaurant, Santelmo. (Goat lovers, look away now.) The suckling goat was delicious. Our lovely waiter told us this was his last day as he was about to start university. He’d been helping his mum and dad out in their restaurant. The following morning I saw an elderly couple sweeping the street. I had noticed how clean it was, especially considering the amount of tourists. What an amazing community.

We were sorry to leave Cabrales, but excited to start phase 2 of the circumnavigation of Spain and head off to Segovia.

Segovia is in the Castilla y Leon region. The region is large but sparsely populated. Driving through the unforgiving landscape, it’s not surprising. I imagine the young ‘uns like many other parts of the world, have no intention of leading the hardcore lives their grandparents and parents did, farming a land that gives no quarter.

Our hotel for the night (Hotel San Antonio Real) was previously a monastery. We were issued with habits and had to take a vow of silence. Only joking, but the rooms are a little sparse. Comfy bed though.

No time to lose, we dumped our cases and headed on out. 2 minutes walk, and we were walking alongside the most impressive aqueduct I have ever seen. Built by the Romans, it ran for 15k, bringing water from the Rio Frio.

Next, we wandered around Segovia, following a circuit I found on a website called Rabbies. The cathedral is extremely grand, situated in the plaza Mayor. It has a dignity about it that I can’t say the Alcazar de Segovia has.

The Alcazar has its roots in the 9th century but was completely rebuilt in the late 1800’s. It has a hefty history but looks decidedly light weight.

In a nutshell, Segovia is compact but choc full of grand architecture and impressive history. You can get round it on foot in half a day but it deserves a bit longer to really enjoy it.

We decided to have dinner in our hotel and what a great choice that was. We dined in the monastery courtyard that was surrounded by graceful arches and immaculate brickwork. It had a very serene vibe – as an ex-monastery should I suppose. The food was sublime. (More suckling things, this time pig).

Tomorrow we make our way to Trujillo via Monfrague National Park.

Segovia – expectations exceeded