Caceres and Salamanca

It has just occurred to me that I have been very remiss and not commented on expectations of Islantilla and Alcatraz.

Here they are: Islantilla- expectations exceeded mainly due to the amazing beaches.

Alcatraz – expectations dashed

Last night’s venture into Caceres old town was a tale of two halves. Our usual habit when abroad is to avoid restaurants in the touristy areas as they are usually poor value and mediocre quality. However, neither of us felt like walking too far in the rain, and we had a fab meal in Trujillo in the town square, so we took our chances. Wrong decision. Expensive, mediocre and not much atmosphere.

On the way in to the old town, I’d spied a cosy looking bar so we popped in there for a quick drink before bed. What a contrast. We had a glass of local wine each , (Red for Steve, white for me. Both delicious) and sat and took in the local dramas unfolding before us. A group of people came in, the older Spanish man of the group with his arm around a slim African young man, comforting him as he cried. Another group of men, happy and jolly, greeting an English guy who bought them drinks. People eating, planning, chatting. It was great. Our wine cost €5.

The sun shone this morning and what a difference it made. We hot-footed it out again and this time saw the town in a better light, made even better by a late breakfast of croissants filled with Nutella. One thing I’ve really noticed while we sit outside and enjoy our refreshments is how many Spanish people smoke. The message that smoking is bad for you has just not got through. They don’t even vape. Neither do they eat any vegetables other than potatoes. And the amount of salt in the food! What is all this crap about the Mediterranean diet? Mind you, a lot of wine is consumed – that must be the antidote, so I’ll keep on imbibing on a regular basis.

Next stop, Salamanca. The drive up was mercifully dry although the sky looked threatening. This time, the “adventure” was finding the hotel parking. We circumnavigated the same three streets three times. (At least it was a nod to my original theme of going round in circles).We were stuck in a loop we couldn’t get out of – we knew it wasn’t right but we didn’t know what else to do. Eventually we found the hotel itself and every parking space outside it was taken. Hot and bothered, I jumped out of the car and fought my way to the front desk (bloody tour group were dithering about, not actually queuing, although I did inadvertently barge in front of an elderly couple patiently waiting their turn) ready to demand our promised parking space. Turns out they have an underground car park but you have to check in with the hotel first. Oh. Telling us before we arrive would be useful.

Next obstacle, getting into the parking space. This resulted in me banging my head quite hard on the car window – I had forgotten I hadn’t opened it before I tried to stick my head out and see how near to the pillar the car was. I will never take our driveway at home for granted again.

Once our nerves had steadied, we dumped our stuff in our room and hit Salamanca. What a place! Gobsmackingly gorgeous. It’s a university city – the uni was founded in 1218. What I particularly like is the way the buildings are used, not just there as eye candy. The students have some fabulous buildings to study in.

I had been looking forward to seeing the Art Deco museum and it didn’t disappoint. The museum was actually a house originally built by the son of a wealthy industrialist. He loved Art Nouveau and had it built accordingly. Over the years it changed hands and eventually fell into disrepair but was rescued by Salamanca council.

It’s a fabulous museum, with beautiful glass sculptures by Lalique and many other Art Nouveau andArt Deco artefacts. Even the cafe is gorgeous. We had been sternly warned by the harridan at reception not to take photos but we did manage to sneak a couple so you can see the glasswork.

I’m not sure we saw everything Salamanca had to offer and if we get time tomorrow we’ll explore some more but for now here are some photos from today.

Caceres expectations: met

Salamanca expectations: exceeded