Middle-aged flash packers

For anyone who hasn’t heard of the Cinque Terre, it’s 5 pretty coastal villages connected by a path that weaves its way through ancient terraces and looks out over the sea. It’s iconic and it’s been on our “ to do” list for some time. We would have preferred to walk it during the Spring before all the tourists arrived but the opportunity and decent weather didn’t arise.

You can purchase an online ticket that costs €47 for 3 days and gives you access to the trains that service the villages and also covers the fee charged for walking parts of the trail.

It also gives you free access to the station toilets – quite a bonus when the official charge is €1 per person!

When we arrived at the station, the train had just arrived and we settled in, glad we had just made it and pleased the train was so empty. We were feeling a bit smug, thinking we’d come to Liguria at just the right time to miss the crowds.

Forty minutes later, the train left the station, packed to the gills. What the hell?! Is this some dolmus system as in Turkey, where the driver doesn’t leave until people are literally spilling out of the bus? Well at least it got us talking to our fellow passengers as we were but sitting on each other.

Most people got off at Monterosso as did we. Our plan was to walk the trail to Vernazza and after that see if we had enough energy to make it to Corniglia. The distances aren’t far but we imagined there would be a lot of undulation.

Monterosso is very pretty, the beach is nice and the sea is crystal clear. We set off with a spring in our step but it wasn’t long before the crowds got tiresome. Instead of being a one way circuit, people can walk from either direction, meaning that there were many bottlenecks. Add to the equation that there were just too many people, some of whom were really struggling to climb the steps, and you have mayhem. Many of those struggling were ladies who had obviously been dragged along by their partners – don’t think theirs will be a happy household later! I don’t think people realise how hard the CT is – it actually says it’s for experienced hikers but no-one seems aware of this.

After a while , the crowds thinned out and we made it to Vernazza, absolutely soaked in sweat. It was so hot (30 degrees and no breeze) we were both dripping. Hydration was key hence a stop at a bar. Vernazza was heaving- it’s been ages since I’ve been somewhere so busy. We managed to secure ourselves a couple of seats at a four seater table and before long we had company – one lot a very aloof English couple and they were quickly replaced by an Irish couple (friendly).

The next leg to Corniglia was much quieter thank goodness. But we were so hot, and the steps so steep it was actually quite a struggle until we got into our stride. At least this time, we were able to take advantage of the views that overlooked the brightly painted village houses.

However I wasn’t sorry to arrive in Corniglia and luckily we got to the station in time to catch a relatively empty train back to La Spezia.

On arrival home we showered and went straight to sleep! Completely knackered.

We managed to drag ourselves out for an ice cream and a bit of shopping. While in the shop, I noticed a man acting a bit strangely then Steve saw him clear a shelf of tuna in jars and stuff them in his rucksack. I imagine he got away with it as there didn’t seem to be any kerfuffle. Wonder what the deal is with that particular tuna? He obviously liked it a lot.

Tomorrow- if our bodies will allow us – we will start at Levanto and walk to Monterosso. Levanto isn’t one of the Cinque Terre villages but our CT ticket covers train travel to it and it seems a shame not to use it. It’s a gentler and shorter walk and so hopefully our legs will be back on form for the final part of the CT on Thursday.