Middle-aged flash packers

The Amador Causeway was originally built as a military base, protecting the southern most part of the Panama Canal. It’s now a 6km boardwalk. Obviously it’s not completely pedestrianised (perish the thought) but there are dedicated cycle paths and walking tracks and not much traffic uses it (it’s a dead end) so it’s a pleasure to walk along without the constant hooting and general stress of Panamanian traffic.

I was very keen to go there so we decided to deploy our metro and bus card once again. We are objects of curiosity on the metro as not many extranjeros (foreigners) use it. People are worried about us it seems, as two men gave us their seats and one of them was at least 80.

We have the metro sussed but the buses are far more complicated. S has almost cracked the code but we had to get a bus from the Albrook mall and bus station which proved most confusing. We must have looked like lost souls as a policeman came up and helped us. As previously, the advice was get a taxi it’s only $5. What must all the earnest young eco warriors working in city planning think? A brand new metro and an army of buses and even the police think we should get a taxi. However, he directed us very comprehensively to exactly the right bus stop. When we got there the next bus wasn’t for another 20 minutes. We got a taxi.

And what a taxi. Our knack of getting the worst possible taxi has not left us you’ll be glad to hear. No seatbelts and all the warning lights that could possibly be on were on. The driver himself was very jolly but quite insane which meant we arrived at our destination very quickly indeed. And we were alive which had seemed in doubt at some points.

The meander along the causeway didn’t disappoint. It’s lovely. Hardly any litter, benches everywhere and great views. Very few people were walking but the bird life was very active. I still believe that it’s pointless going to remote corners of the world, fighting through undergrowth etc hoping to see the lesser spotted green owl or whatever is as rare as hens teeth in that country. Go to a car park in that country, find a tree nearby and you are almost certain to see one there. We saw a fly catcher in a tree by a bench that yesterday the guides and bird watchers were in raptures about having seen one in the jungle. We also saw a yellow headed caracara, a vulture, 2 yellow warblers and a sloth in a tree right outside an office building.

The only downside with our meander was the heat. It was boiling and extremely humid. We were both dripping with sweat and it wasn’t long before a cold drink and food was required.

Ceviche is a big thing here and that is a huge thumbs up for Panama in my book. It’s delicious and not at all fattening unless you have a huge basket of garlic bread with it which we did.

Fortified, we pottered off again only to fade again half an hour later. Time to head for home so we found the bus stop and sat down. And got a taxi. In our defence we didn’t go all the way home. We stopped off at Albrook where we could get the metro and also have a look round the mall – the second largest in all the Americas apparently. I don’t doubt it for a second. Within minutes of our arrival, S got a glazed, slightly panicky look in his eyes and we were out of there and on the train in 15 minutes. Is the hate of shopping embedded in the male gene? Someone somewhere must know the answer but I’d put money on it that it is.

After a rest and a cooling shower we decided to find the head of Einstein. Apparently the Jewish community decided to donate the head to the Cangrejo area which by luck we happen to be staying in. A short stroll through the neighbourhood took us to a small square where there is indeed a giant head of Einstein. Even nicer was a tree next to it that was full of tiny hummingbirds gathering nectar. The perfect end to a very enjoyable day.

Tomorrow we head off to Playa Blanca, a “resort” along the pacific coast. Although we have thoroughly enjoyed Panama City, we are very much looking forward to being near a beach with a sea breeze.