Middle-aged flash packers

Day 2 – Rose Valley

Today we were on the hunt for the famous Bulgarian roses. They are grown in the valley between Stara Zagora and Kazanlak and in the past have  been a huge source of income due to the price of the rose oil made from them. It’s around now that they bloom and are picked and processed for the oil.

In my mind, I had images of huge swathes of fields brimming with flamboyant rose blooms  – I couldn’t wait to get in the car and smell the scented air.

But first, time for a work out in the “fitness centre”. It’s such a precious space that you have to ask for the key at reception, you can’t just go in. Are they worried about theft?Imagine someone trying to walk out with a running machine. To avoid detection, they’d have to go out via the fire exit and the gym is on the 5th floor. Now that’s what I call a workout. Or perhaps they are worried someone might sneak in and sleep in there? 

Well, they would have to be very small. I could curl up in there but no chance for Steve. 

Never mind, I wasn’t going to do any floor work anyway, and probably not any weights either by the looks of things. But I was going to use the vibrating therapy machine. What a gadget. S tried it and immediately felt sick. I tried to do a vibrating squat and could only hold it for a minute. I will try harder tomorrow.

A quick shower, then time to call the boy to get the car. Valet parking – what a thing. A 14 year old is hired to take your car away somewhere unknown to you and then gets it again, hopefully still in one piece. (The car that is.)

The plan for the day was a bit hazy but we intended to drive towards Kazanlak and admire the fields of roses on the way. 

As we drove, I saw a field of roses but they looked as though they were there by accident as they were very small, more like what we call a rambling rose. Still, plenty of time to see the real deal.

We decided to head for the Kazanlak “Museum of the Roses” to fully immerse ourselves in the experience. It was all very interesting with references to some very rich families that made huge amounts of money from the oil, and we saw how small the roses were. There were some in the museum garden and they smelt divine – like Turkish delight – but no definitive information as to where to find the roses.

We asked the museum manager who advised us to head to Shipka and we would see rose fields on the way there so off we went. 

We saw some monuments and fields full of stuff but none with roses. What on earth was going on?

Still, Shipka was an interesting diversion. Home to an incredibly fancy church, the village itself was an eclectic mix of new villas, neatly landscaped and very tasteful, rubbing shoulders with breeze blocks assembled together to look vaguely like a dwelling but not quite cutting it. I forsee Trouble ahead.

While wandering about, we spotted what looked like a dead snake on the path. It turned out not to be dead and slithered away. It was very long and very scary. We think it was a black adder but couldn’t be sure. 

Determined to find the god damn rose fields I called into a hotel/gift shop and asked the manager if they knew where we could find the elusive roses. Through Google translate we managed to communicate and after the purchase of a rose product and fridge magnet, we were off again to continue our search.

This time we struck lucky. Next to a cemetery and a spring factory (I kid you not) we found a whole field of roses just waiting to be harvested. The harvesting can only take place in the very early morning and is mainly done by women, apparently due to a woman’s more dexterous touch but really because men are lazy and don’t like doing it.

At last! The smell of Turkish delight filled the air and S and  I agreed that we would plant either an Alba or Damascus rose as soon as we got home.

Our journey home went through villages where we should have been able to see rose fields but didn’t. All very strange. S reckoned that it was no longer viable to grow them and they’d all been dug up. Much as I don’t want to believe him, I fear he might be right. Maybe there is no-one left prepared to pick them. We did notice lavender was being grown, presumably easier to harvest? All very sad but at least we got to see some roses and we had a great day exploring the area. Plus we got to see a giant communist man statue. I’ve no idea who he was but he was a very imposing sight.

After a satisfying visit to Lidl (do you want a table that hooks on to a balcony, folds up  and saves space? If so get down there straight away) we arrived back at the hotel where an actual man took our car and parked it. 

After a lie down and some seriously productive holiday planning, it was time to get out and find some dinner. This time we went to a beery sort of place which was great even though Steve got liver instead of pigs ears. No, I’m not explaining that one other than my husband is certifiably weird.

Tomorrow we are attempting a 10 mile hike involving the Shipka monument. An early ish start is required in order to avoid afternoon thunderstorms so it’s good night from me.

I hope you enjoy the photos.

Snake