Middle-aged flash packers

Astana or Nur Sultan. It’s all the same

Inspired by TV programmes showing the various countries that make up the Silk Road, a trip to Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Azerbaijan to see the highlights seemed like a good idea.

We’ve had to plan everything in advance this time rather than our usual bumbling about as transportation needed coordinating.

So today saw us on the Air Astana flight to Nur Sultan (formerly Astana, the not at all egotistical ex president decided to rename it after him) Apart from a small delay, it was a really nice flight. Lovely air stewardesses, good seats and the food was more than edible! We were informed that today is a public holiday in Kazakhstan and on arrival it seemed a bit of a ghost town.

Our apartment here in Astana is average but has a most complicated toilet with lots of incomprehensible programmes, one of which makes the seat hot. I’ve found the flush and have ignored everything else.

The weather is disappointing- cold, wet and windy. I’m regretting not bringing my down jacket.

Good news; Joe and Nat have got engaged! Chatted to them about the actual “moment” before we braved the weather.

It was so wet, we dived into Coffee Boom to escape the rain and temporarily abandoned our sightseeing. Here we got a peek into life for the more well heeled of Nur Sultan. One doesn’t eat one’s burger with a knife and fork here but with one’s hands – with gloves on.

I have a new favourite drink which is Tashkent tea.

The rain had stopped by the time we emerged after refuelling, but it was extremely windy. This part of Kazakhstan is very flat and high winds aren’t unusual. Here’s a fact for you – Astana is one of the coldest cities in the world. Wish I’d known that before I came.

We went to the national museum which was very interesting. An eclectic mix of art and history. I hadn’t realised that Kazakhstan had been used by the Russians as a place to test their nuclear weapons, something the Kazaks weren’t very keen on. In fact, the former president Nazarbayev commissioned a “peace wall” in Nur Sultan with the quote “peace is worth fighting for”. Still scratching my head about that one.

On our way back to our apartment, we popped into the Hazrat Sultan mosque. Very beautiful, with a laid back feel. Children were allowed to run and roll about on the carpet. People sat down with their families and prayed where they sat. Huge contrast to the formality and stuffiness of Oman.

Quick shower then off again to see and ascend the Bayterek Tower, which apparently has a great view of the city from the top. We will never know as it was closed.

Steve was getting hungry and was showing a distinct lack of enthusiasm for my plan to see Astana lit up at night. (Quite a spectacle according to the guide book.) We ate at the “Sunday” restaurant even though it was Friday. I’m loving the names of the various establishments here.

Sensitivity alert: stop reading now if you are keen on horses.

Steve had horse steak and it was delicious. Wish I’d had it too.

I managed to drag Steve home via various lit up buildings. The bridge was particularly pretty.

I’ve been asked by youngest son to do an “executive summary” of each blog so he can read the main points quickly. Basically he can’t be bothered to read it all. Here goes:

Strange toilet, cold and windy, eat with gloves on, good museum, peace wall, nice mosque, lights are pretty, horse is tasty.

Guess I’ll have to put that first in future.