Middle-aged flash packers

Day 5 – Toledo sightseeing and river  walk

We have shutters on the windows here so would probably have slept until midday had our eldest son and grandson not  FaceTimed us to catch up. They are also on holiday and it seems that Jamie who isn’t quite 2 has taken a liking to olives which I think is quite impressive.

Steve designed us a walking route around Toledo that took in the major sites. Our stroll last night took us around quite a few of these but obviously they weren’t open which added another dimension.

First, the monastery. We’ve seen a lot of church like structures in our time but we decided to go inside and we’re glad we did.The elaborate carvings were incredible especially considering how long ago they were produced and the cloisters were particularly elegant.

Second, the synagogue. It is quite a contrast to the monastery and the cathedral. A very simple design, it seems it was a place of worship rather than a vehicle to show off wealth and power. The Jewish people had lived peacefully in Toledo (and other areas of Spain) until antisemitism began to take hold and in 1391 there were riots where mobs either murdered them or forced them to convert to Christianity. In 1492, the ruling monarchs expelled all Jews from the regions of Castile and Aragon. Interestingly, before this time when the Muslims were in power, they allowed Jews and Christians to express their own faith as long as they paid a tax. 

Third stop, cathedral. I am now officially done with Spanish cathedrals. Same as Cuenca, very bitty, lots of work being done, no atmosphere.

Lunchtime. We ate at the Casa de Damasco, not far from the Alcazar. Luckily for us, this little gem is tucked away down a side street so was nice and quiet. Serving Syrian food, the falafels and baba ganoush were delicious and reasonably priced.

Fourth stop. Alcazar. The alcazar was formerly a Roman palace, built in the 3rd century. Later it  became a Muslim fortress but is most famous for its role in the Spanish civil war. It’s now a war museum and public library which to be honest didn’t appeal to us so we went for a walk by the river instead.

Did you know that the River Tagus (or Rio Tajo) flows through Cuenca as well as Toledo? And that it goes all the way to Lisbon where it meets the Atlantic Ocean? Of course you didn’t and neither did I until I came to this area. 

We had a lovely wander along the river where  the Toledo council, municipality or whatever it  is called, has provided a very civilised walking route. Very peaceful apart from the greedy geese on the lookout for  food. 

Home and nap time. This late siesta lark is great unless you have an unhinged washing machine to wake you up. I’d put a few items in it for a wash earlier. All seemed fine at the time, but not any longer. I ran into the utility room to see what was going on and the machine was literally shaking itself to bits. Steve had to suspend himself between the washing machine and the door in order to hold it steady. There was no way to switch it off so for 8 long minutes he had to hang on. I know, I should have videoed it but it seemed a bit insensitive. Annoyingly after all that, my trousers and socks were still quite wet. I have a long list of suggestions to make to the apartment owner. 

After this rude awakening, we decided to walk to a viewpoint and see Toledo from a different angle. Pottering about in the warm late afternoon sun is always a pleasure and this was no exception. 

Then back home for chicken, salad and baked potatoes. Sadly the chicken was clearly over 100 years old before it died. It had a good innings but unfortunately was inedible. Luckily the wine we bought was good.

Tomorrow we aim to do a hike around Las Barrancas de Burujon. Showers forecasted.

Poppies everywhere